We all know the Roux family – you’d have to be living in a culinary vacuum not to have heard of Le Gavroche and the Waterside Inn – but how often do you hear people talking about Roux at Parliament Square? Unlike Le Gavroche, which I find far too twee, in terms of decor, Parliament Square has a clean, modern interior, and the food is a balance of fine French cooking and modern molecular techniques. The Head Chef, Toby Stuart, has worked in some great kitchens, including Cliveden, Orrery, The Square, Richard Neat (in Cannes), and Galvin at Windows. Toby is joined by Steve Groves, the winner of Masterchef: The Professionals in 2009. I’d originally booked a table for two, but at the last minute we were joined by Kristen and Alan who live in New York and are very keen diners themselves.
To begin there’s a celebration of spring: a tomato jelly, with goats cheese mousse and a green tomato vinaigrette. This amuse it both clean, but also has the right mouth-feel to pique your interest.
Tomato jelly, with goats cheese mousse and a green tomato vinaigrette |
Altlantic brill with a baked crust, a ragout of chanterelles, white onions, brown shrimp and a shellfish jus gras |
Caramelised onion polenta with spring vegetables and homemade ricotta cheese |
Coconut panna cotta, passionfruit jelly, and lime granita |
Rhubarb and crumble souffle |
If soufflés are not your thing, perhaps chocolate is? On a bed of chocolate soil, we have a chocolate cremosa, sea salt and caramelised peanut parfait, coriander and Kaffir lime. The dish is lightly dressed with a banana espuma. Kristen loved this dish, and it is apparently one of Toby’s signature dishes…. Tempting, but that soufflé is exceptional.
Chocolate cremosa, sea salt and caramelised peanut parfait, coriander and Kaffir lime |
Roux at Parliament Square
12 Great George Street
London
SW1P 3AD